The King Of Stews - The Cassoulet

No French dish is more steeped in history, myth and religion as is the cassoulet. Natives of southwestern France's Languedoc region link their very cultural identity to the archetypical peasant dish, a rich, earthy casserole of beans, meat and herbs.

Cassoulet is said to date back to the 14th century siege of Castelnaudary during the Hundred Years' War, when citizens created a communal dish so hearty their revivified soldiers sent the invaders packing. But since then several cities have laid claim to the true recipe. In a conciliatory gesture, chef Prosper Montagné decreed in 1929 that "God the father is the cassoulet of Castelnaudary, God the Son that of Carcassonne, and the Holy Spirit that of Toulouse."

If you don't know ( Shame on you) A cassoulet is a hearty, rustic stew of white beans, meat, sausage, poultry, and bread crumbs. The beans provide a creamy base for the assorted meats, and the bread crumbs add a crisp counterpoint, creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures and is baked For several hours and is traditionally served in an earthenware vessel called a cassole, from which the dish derives its name.

In France, there are hundreds of restaurants that claim they make the best, but for me, in Paris, there is only one...D'Chez Eux. My favorite restaurant in Paris - hands down!

ah! D'Chez Eux - You'll know when I stop dining there, either I am dead or the owner, Jean-Pierre is".

The Four Most Sexiest Words in the English Language - "Your Table Is Ready"

A restaurant not for the impoverished of dress and pocket!

Everybody knows you need deep pockets to eat at Wiltons, but I would prefer to eat here once than twice anywhere else. Blue blood courses through the veins of this bastion of Britishness.

Most Modern restaurants( in my opinion and that's what really counts) is their so-called cuisine wouldn't stimulate the appetite of a starving boa constrictor!

The most prized tables are the booths (Pullmans) along the left hand side of the main dining room, usually reserved for royalty,high-ranking politicians and yours truly!. And yet Wiltons has a highly developed sense of noblesse oblige. All are welcome, for wonderful oysters, Dover sole.

Ah! Dover Sole -
Whole Dover sole is the overwhelming choice of English connoisseurs: brushed with melted butter, sprinkled with salt and pepper, turned quickly on the grill so that the grill bars burn a dark lattice pattern into the fish, then cooked under the intense heat of the broiler for roughly 12 to 15 minutes. Perfectly simple, simply perfect and entirely sufficient. This is the porterhouse steak of fish. No sauce is needed, partly because cooking the fish whole ('on the bone') helps to keep it moist. You may well come across an occasional apostate who insists upon tartar sauce (toss the bum out!) or hollandaise (too rich),...then of course, game in season and terrific beef round out the menu.

The wine list is a joy. The oyster bar has been spiffed up recently but, in an ever-changing world, it's the constancy of Wiltons for which it is best loved.

What I mourn the most thought is that no cigars are allowed any longer. In my day, to finish a meal here and have a glass of port along with some Stilton Cheese presented by the affiable Jimmy Marks, and a good cigar was the best of all worlds, alas! Sigh!!

Recreating the Golden Age of Rail Travel - Edwardian Style

To be able to experience the Golden Age Of Travel of yesterday BUT today, here is my choice,its the Orient Express British Pullman, day trips out of London. I especially love their dinning programs - breakfast/lunch/dinner or afternoon tea.
It is something I return to do again and again. Dressed to the hilt, siting in large easy chairs and a table lovingly decorated , eating and drinking to ones hearts content all the while, gazing outside your luxurious cabin and watching the lovely English countryside roll by. Who could ask for anything more?

This Golden Age of Travel encapsulates the very essence of the Edwardian heyday in train travel, nothing quite brings this to life that British Pullman.

As the train makes its way into the station at Victoria, the commotion and excitement at the Orient-Express lounge builds as your glamorously dressed hosts invite you out to the platform to board. Take the time first to walk to the front of the train and admire the gracious, powerful and magnificent steam locomotive.

From the moment liveried stewards welcome you to your immaculately appointed carriage, the adventure begins. Stepping aboard the British Pullman is like stepping back in time. For every detail, from regal carpets, woven brass luggage racks and mahogany glass-panelled doors to silken lampshades and velour tapestry armchairs, transports you back to back to a more gracious age.

In the care of your steward as time passes unnoticed, enjoy a delicious five course lunch, unruffled and unhurried. Few journeys will take you out of modern time quite so thoroughly and into another era.

A liqueur will round off your meal before the train arrives at London Victoria. Your journey aboard the British Pullman takes you on a circular tour.
Here is a sample menu for lunch:
Lunch

Seasonal Soup served with Chived Créme Fraiche
Seared Fillet of Herb Encrusted Salmon,
Braised Broad Beans and Smoked Bacon, Baby new potatoes
served with a A Noilly Prat Sauce

Chocolate Jaffa Cake Tart

Coffee from Colombia

Of course wine and aperitifs are available.

Besides the dining programs, there are also day trips to visit various castles in England.

E Mail me for details.
If you happen to be in London during Christmas, their Christmas Lunch on the train with wandering musicians and singers is magical.

Rules Restaurant - A Must For Any Wannabe Edwardian

Rules was established by Thomas Rule in 1798 making it the oldest restaurant in London. It serves traditional British food, specialising in classic game cookery, oysters, pies and puddings.

Rules is fortunate to own the Lartington Estate, in the High Pennines, where they learn how to source the highest quality game birds, roe deer and Belted Galloway beef. Rules is renowned for its game dishes and as such, the Game Season dates play an important part in shaping their menus.

I try to have a dinner and or lunch at Rules every December and being an "Edwardian", would order, of course, an appitizer, soup, fish, meat, chesse, dessert and savory.
For a little light reading, to stimulate your senses and stomach, look at the menu from Rules below:
ENJOY!

First Course
• Starter
Brown Windsor Soup with Welsh Rarebit
(Britain's answer to French Onion Soup)
Game Soup with Quince Jelly
Stilton & Walnut Tart
Innes Farm Goat's Cheese Fritters with Damson Relish, Bacon & Avocado Salad
Roe Deer Terrine with Cumberland Relish
Crisp Wild Rabbit with Stornaway Black Pudding & Bacon Salad
Potted Shrimps with Wholemeal Toast
Dressed Cornish Crab with Lemon Mayonnaise
• Oysters from the Duchy of Cornwall (half dozen)
Frenchman's Creek Rock Oysters
Duchy Native Oysters
Foie Gras Terrine with Smoked Wild Duck Rillettes
Isle of Lewis "Uig Lodge" Smoked Salmon
Main Course
Steak & Kidney Pie or Pudding with Savoy Cabbage
Steak, Kidney & Oyster Pudding with Savoy Cabbage
*Pheasant Pie with Creamed Morrels & Parsnip Puree
North Sea Haddock with Chips, Pea Puree & Tartare sauce
*Pheasant Curry Pilau Rice, Mango Chutney & Naan Bread
Venison "Osso Bucco" with Root Vegetable Puree
*Roast Hen Pheasant with Peas, Bacon & Onion Cream (for two)
Breast of Wild Duck with Artichoke & Black Cherry Sauce
Rack of West Sussex Lamb with Spinach
Grilled Sirloin Steak with Chips & Bearnaise Sauce
Rib of Beef on the Bone with Yorkshire Pudding & Dauphinoise Potatoes (for two)
Roe Deer Loin with Spinach & Ruby Plums
Jugged Hare with Neeps & Tatties
Grilled Wild Sea Bass with Courgettes & Samphire
English Grey Leg Partridge with Game Chips, Bread Sauce, Redcurrant Jelly & a Pear & Celeriac Puree
Roast Young Grouse with Game Chips, Bread Sauce, Redcurrant Jelly with Sprouts, Bacon & Chestnuts
• Snipe, Woodcock, Teal & Whole Dover Sole
Vegetables & Salads
Creamed Mash
Chips
Spinach
(steamed or creamed)
Honey Roast Parsnips
Vegetable of the Day
Heritage Tomato & Red Onion Salad
Watercress, Peashoot & Land Cress Salad
Puddings
Golden Treacle Sponge Pudding with Custard
Sticky Toffee & Date Pudding with Butterscotch
Queen of Puddings
Spotted Dick with Custard
Rich Chocolate Pudding with Chocolate Sauce
Apple & Blackberry Crumble
Bread & Butter Pudding with Jersey Cream
Chocolate Souffle with Pistachio Ice Cream
Treacle Tart with Rodda's Clotted Cream
Raspberry Syllabub Trifle
Burnt Cream
Selection of Ice Creams/Sorbets
made on the premises
Cheese
Cropwell Bishop Stilton Cheese with Celery & Apple
British Cheese Plate of:
Stinking Bishop, Montgomery Cheddar, Shropshire Blue & Bosworth Ash
Pudding Wine
• Glass/50cl Jug/ Bottle
Coteaux du Layon St Aubin Domaine Delesvaux
(Loire) 2008
Royal Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos
2005
Renee Rostaing Cuvee M'Blanc Vdp d'OC
2006
Chateau Rolland A.C. Barsac
(Sauternes) 2003
Taylor's
1998
Dow's Vintage
1991