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Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Locke-Ober – The restaurant that gave hope to generations of Boston men that if they just followed the rules, they too could find their rightful place

Established in 1875 – the restaurant was a fine dining haven, serving the cities’ most powerful people and old line Bostonian families ( Men that is –the restaurant only admitted women in 1970) for over 100 years.
The restaurant was an institution, a sort of manners-school-meets-lunch club for the Irish, Jewish and Italian men who worked downtown but weren’t welcome at any of the exclusive clubs controlled by the Boston Brahmin. It was the place for men of Boston to learn how to behave like Yankee gentlemen.

To me, it was not only the atmosphere, the wait staff, but it was the food and drink and great company. Now lost on today’s dinners, here was the food of my past and still lives with me - Lobster thermador, finnan haddie, calfs liver, Bay Scallops with bacon, Lobster stew, Scrod, lobster Newburg and many more dishes that gladden the heart and cocktails – like the Ward Eight and ice cold Gin Martini’s ( for lunch!!) I had arrived when I was able for lunch to down a few Ice-Cold Martini's

My grandfather and father and then just myself, were frequent clients, no! Frequent members, for it felt like an exclusive men’s club with better food and people. Men dressed (albeit) in Boston conservative dress, and if you too where dressed correctly, you would get the Nod of approval, not only from the staff but from other dinners.

It was and will forever remain one of the great joys in my lifetime.

It closed after 136 years, because the world had changed, the younger generation did not care a fig and still does not about tradition, or style or manners (Ok, don’t get me going!).

But who cares, I had my time ‘to bask under the sun’ and experience this magical place.


Friday, April 25, 2014

Who Screwed Up the Classic Caesar Salad - I'd Like To Punch Them In The Nose

A Warning - If the photo below is your idea of a classic Caesar Salad, then leave now, because I am going to hurl insults at you,

                   Le Cirque - shame on you (A Caesar Salad, this is not)
if your Classic Caesar salad must have shrimp or chicken on it, starting running, because I am going to through things at you, if you want your classic Caesar Salad without anchovies, then don't even talk to me, you have no idea what great food is about and never will and don't tell me you (like it seems for a vast majority of US Citizens)  have the need for Gluten Free products, I don't believe it, that kind of thing has reached epic proportions in our country and a Doctor I know at the CDC (Center for Disease Control) says that only 1% of the population has the disease known as Celiac (which requires a Gulten Free diet).  
When I was young, about 7 years old, in the late 1940's and into the early 1950's, I was taken to a classic continental style food restaurant (where one had to wear a coat and a tie - which I still do today, I am happy to say)  and had a table side prepared classic Caesar salad and that salad, its taste and preparation has stayed with me for over 70 years. I, early on made that dish one of my cooking repertories. There is not a week that goes by that I don't make that classic dish it in my garlic-rubbed wooden bowl ( de rigueur, of course) and my mind goes back to those happy days of dining in the 1950's.
The world today, as it does so often of late, has bastardized that dish and many other from my youth. 
My blood is boiling, so I need a Caesar salad to calm me down!!!
Here is the classic Caesar from my 1950's days and of course , its correct - never, ever deviate

Howard’s Classic Caesar Salad

Ingredients:
1 – Large garlic clove, mashed
½ lemon
1 – tablespoon of Worcestershire Sauce
1 – teaspoon of Dijon-style mustard
2 to 3 Anchovy Fillets
3 tablespoons of Olive Oil
1/2 cup of grated Parmesan Cheese (fresh or prepared)
1 head of Romaine Lettuce - chopped
1 whole egg (coddled or raw) -This is NOT an option, without it,its not a CAESAR salad - nuf said!
Salt
Pepper
Croutons –  freshly made, of course!! 
Put your serving dishes for the salad in your refrigerator to chill
In a wooden bowl – make your dressing:
Mince the anchovies and mash in the bowl with a pinch of salt with the back of a spoon
Add the Olive oil – mustard – mashed garlic – few turns of fresh crushed pepper - Mixed well, pressing the ingredients against the side of the bowl until well blended.

Note: Try to make the salad just before serving so it remains fragrant and crisp.

~ In a large bowl, put in the lettuce and pour over it the dressing. ~ ~ toss gently, but not to long.
~ Add the egg and toss well, so that the leaves are coated well.
~ Add the Worcestershire sauce, squeeze the lemon over the lettuce (be careful not to let the seeds into the salad) and then add enough Parmesan cheese to lightly cover the top.
~ Mix well.
~ Add the croutons and more Parmesan Cheese to cover the top (again based on your preference)
Toss well
On the chilled plates – sprinkled a bit of pepper first and then plate the salad.
                                       Hail Caesar!
 Of course it even tastes better if you prepare it table-side in your dinning room, what you don't have a dining room but an open kitchen - Dining room? Don't talk to me !





Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Wilton's London - Not For the Impoverished of Dress nor Pocket...

For those of you who know me (How lucky they are), they know that although I am mad for France and anything French, I am also mad for a touch of Edwardian London.
I never go to London without dining at Wilton's - 55 Jermyn St. It has become my home away from home for most of my 70 years. One dresses to eat here and does one.... eat!!! 
I must admit and am rather surprised and in truth ever-so-slightly-disappointed when I arrived as of late, to be informed that I am no longer required to wear a tie ( a coat, still, yes!), This was always a pre-requisite to getting into the building. Well, I guess one must make some kind of nod to the 21st century, but I can tell you, I hope it does not go any further than this!
As you glide through, past the doorman, into the soft-carpeted bar area ( Sammy; the bar man, preparing your oysters as he sees you pass), then into the dining room, there is the most palpable sense that you are leaving behind a world of vulgarity, of hashtags, and reality TV and entering an altogether different sphere. The tone is that of the London Gentleman's club, of staunch Conservative principles and undeniable elitism, but here, for a quiet, stolen couple of hours from the mania of modern life, I care not a jot. Dining at Wiltons for over 65 years has been and will be an experience to savor. 
So tuck into a Pullman booth, have you service Nanny take your order and be prepared to return to another world of manners and glorious food and drink. Ah! don't forget at the end , have your savory ( Anchovies on toast is my recommendation) and then a glass of port and some Stilton!


Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Grits - A Perplexing Thing To Folks North Of The Mason-Dixon Line..BUT....

Southerners have a love affair with grits and as a Born-Again Southerner ( at least in my heart, if not in my soul) they are part of our past, our customs, our hospitality and sheer Southern-ness!
One of the best places to experience this dish of Southern Love is in Charleston at the Charleston Place Hotel in their dining room.
Served on an well starched white tablecloth, a large bowl of love - Shrimp/Sausage and Grits, of course served along with a side order of salty country ham. It does not get any better than this.. 

"Now Give Three Cheers and One Cheer More" As G & S Once Wrote..Hurrah For the True British Soul...


Today a modest band of immaculately dressed chaps and chapettes descended upon Savile Row ( London's key street synonymous with good taste, sharp cutting and bespoke tailoring for more than two centuries ) to protest against the opening of a children's store by Abercrombie and Kent. "We felt ( and I totally agree)  "rather strongly that Savile Row is not the right sort of street for the sale of T-Shirts, cargo pants and thongs with suggestive slogans on them"
If WS Churchill was still alive, he'd have something to see about it! By god!

Monday, April 21, 2014

Indiscreet - They Don't Make Them Like This Anymore - The Movies nor the Stars.....


One of my favorite movies of the past - the movie still proves yet again that great acting, crackling writing, deft direction and two handsome stars never go out of style. 
If you have never seen it, shame on you!

My Watch Of Choice - Ingenuity and Simplicity Are Always My Choice When It Comes to Wrist wear....

To me, the Rolex Watch, although well made, is an ugly, not very stylish wrist watch,( crass if you wish to know)  but that is my opinion. Having forgone wearing watches the last several years and relying on my Smart Phone, I have seen the light and have gone back to wearing a wrist watch. I have also given away my Kindle ( going back to reading hard back books) and have forsaken my computer on my days off among other things. But that's d another story..................
Having visited Zurich last December ( what a WOW! city), I wanted a watch that shouted under-stated elegance,  something thin ( not those over-powering gunky sports watches you see men wear theses day), so, shopping one day, I came upon an example of 20th century design, an easy-to-read face,  distinctive watch hands and the famous red seconds hand ( this look is the official Swiss Railways Clock) and I knew I had found my watch.
It's made by the MONDAINE WATCH CO.
In fact, their design appears to take a place in the eternal hall of fame along side other well known design icons such as Coca-Cola, the Mercedes star, The Toblerone Packaging or the design of the US dollar bill.


I am back after a long ( blog site Respite) that is........


Last December, I had the good fortune to travel to Germany & France along with my famous chef brother, Robert Lewis (The Happy Diabetic) 
We took the Uniworld  river cruise from Cologne to Basel during the fabulous Christmas market period in Germany. I am not, to be honest with you,  a great fan of Christmas celebrations in general, but seeing these special markets devoted to that season in Germany was an real eye-opener WOW!
Check back for more on that story...................... 
If you have never taken a river cruise, you are in for a treat and no one does it better than Uniworld's River Cruises.
The above photo was taken in one of my all time favorite cities ( and areas) Eastern France - in Strasbourg. Behind me is the old town section called Le Petit France and its a must to visit when you come to the marvelous city. 
So, I am glad to be back and stay tuned for more to follow everyday..
~ Howard