I never go to London without dining at Wilton's - 55 Jermyn St. It has become my home away from home for most of my 70 years. One dresses to eat here and does one.... eat!!!
I must admit and am rather surprised and in truth ever-so-slightly-disappointed when I arrived as of late, to be informed that I am no longer required to wear a tie ( a coat, still, yes!), This was always a pre-requisite to getting into the building. Well, I guess one must make some kind of nod to the 21st century, but I can tell you, I hope it does not go any further than this!
As you glide through, past the doorman, into the soft-carpeted bar area ( Sammy; the bar man, preparing your oysters as he sees you pass), then into the dining room, there is the most palpable sense that you are leaving behind a world of vulgarity, of hashtags, and reality TV and entering an altogether different sphere. The tone is that of the London Gentleman's club, of staunch Conservative principles and undeniable elitism, but here, for a quiet, stolen couple of hours from the mania of modern life, I care not a jot. Dining at Wiltons for over 65 years has been and will be an experience to savor.
So tuck into a Pullman booth, have you service Nanny take your order and be prepared to return to another world of manners and glorious food and drink. Ah! don't forget at the end , have your savory ( Anchovies on toast is my recommendation) and then a glass of port and some Stilton!
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