I am off to France, in a couple of days, more specific, I am off to Brittany. The wonderful sea-buffeted peninsula jutting out from the corner of northwest France that holds fast to its distinct personality. Mysterious prehistoric alignments, medieval fortresses, its long, jagged coastline, sunbathed in sandy coves and pink granite cliffs, flowered covered islands and its fishing ports. Ah! Fishing ports and thus the freshest seafood in France. And, truth be told, this is what I come for. Lobsters, oysters, fish of all shapes and sizes and tastes. This trip is somewhat of a pilgrimage, because I come here to taste and stock up on French Vintage (millesime) sardines. No, not those cheap and pathetic garden variety we eat in the USA, NO, these are special.
Let me explain. The French Sardine with the "Millésime" description (based on the 'vintage' notion as in the wine industry) is a variation on the "a` l'ancienne" process (the French process of fishing and canning sardines, they are packed and processed the way fine French wine is made) in that it involves the production of a limited volume of canned sardines (a l'ancienne) based on landings for a specific period, generally May to June, when fat content should be ideal. The sardines are packed in iron, as against the usual aluminum, containers and cans are illustrated in a "limited edition" series. On the bottom of each can is the recommended consumption dates.
Like fine wine, they are to be taken home and stored in a cool spot and turned every three to four months. As the unctuous, chewy sardine age (it takes at least a year for the oil to fully saturate the sardines), they become softer, more refined and delicate, ready to be eaten with a slice of crusty bread.
It is to the town of Quiberon that I go to buy and pay homage to the La Quiberonnaise sardine, the queen of sardines.
If you have never experienced that taste, then you have not had a sardine!
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