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Monday, November 2, 2009

Where Is The Life ,That Ate, I Lead? - Musing On The Restasurants Of My Youth


Locke-Ober may not be the oldest restaurant in Boston, but it is steeped in Yankee tradition, predating the gas-powered automobile, the radio, and the Red Sox. For generations, Boston Brahmin's, power brokers, deal makers, and scene makers have been dining here on oysters, calf's liver (the best!) , and the famous Indian pudding, made with molasses and cornmeal and served warm with a dollop of vanilla ice cream.
Nearly everyone who's anyone has been here: Oscar winners (Paul Newman), presidents (John F. Kennedy), comedians (Jack Benny), icons (Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe), and, finally, women, who weren't allowed in the downstairs dining room until 1970. But more important than the famous were the regulars, such as myself, my father and my grandfather. It was the closest thing we had to an exclusive London Men’s Club.
The dress was typical Back Bay Boston – double pin strip suits, peaked lapels with vest and pocket watch and bow ties or Ivy League school ties.
Lunch was an important event in the lives of many of us who loved this place and worshipped its menu and atmosphere.
It is where the men in my family, when they reached 21, were taken to and introduced to the manager and staff (for we where all to become regulars) and had their first Martini or Ward 8. It was here that I had my first taste of bay scallops with bacon served along with an glacier-like ice cold martini ( 4 to 1); a combo, that which, to this day I still dream about.. ……..
Dream that’s all we can do, for places like Locke-Obers, Luckows, Gage and Tollner, Ernies and so many others are now only a distant memories. but what wonderful memories.
Yes, Locke was rescued by the talented chef Lydia Shire, but its not the same and they no longer serve lunch and the menu has changed from old classics to modern updates, but its not the same.
People just don't have any feel, anymore for genteel living and dining. It's a thing of the past." Today restaurants are about ‘playpens for adults’, not about fine dining, great service, well dressed clients and intelligent menus.

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